A Romantic Walk with European Vibes and Hidden Stories
of Korea’s Modern History
Behind the fast-paced Seoul City Hall lies Jeong-dong, a quiet
neighborhood full of charm, layered history, and early Western influence. Once
home to royal palaces, foreign legations, and missionary schools, this area
tells the story of how Korea began its journey into modernity during the
late 19th century. With its European-style architecture, red-brick churches,
and autumn foliage, it’s one of the most atmospheric walking routes in
Seoul.
Suggested Walking Route
Deoksugung Stone Wall Road → Jeongdong Church → Pai
Chai School & Appenzeller Memorial Hall → Emperor’s Path → Former Russian
Legation → Seoul Museum of Art → Jeongdong Theater & Cecil Theater
🏰 Deoksugung
Stone Wall Road
Start your walk along this stone wall path beside Deoksugung Palace. Once
used by Joseon royalty, this tree-lined road is now a favorite among locals for
slow walks, dates, and fall foliage. In autumn, the golden gingko leaves
transform the street into a glowing tunnel, making it one of Seoul’s most
photographed walkways.
⛪ Jeongdong
Church
Built in 1897, this historic Protestant church reflects Korea’s first
encounter with Christianity and Western thought. It played an essential role
during the enlightenment era and still holds services today in its original
red-brick sanctuary.
🏡 Pai Chai
School & Appenzeller Memorial Hall
Across the street, visit Pai Chai Hakdang, Korea’s first modern
school founded by American missionary Henry Appenzeller. The memorial hall
introduces visitors to the early days of Western-style education and Korea’s
modernization efforts through rare photos, letters, and exhibits.
🏰Emperor’s Path
From Pai Chai School, continue walking toward the small hill that leads
to the Former Russian Legation. This route is known as the “Emperor’s
Path”, tracing the secret journey of King Gojong in 1896. In a
moment of political danger after the assassination of Queen Min, he fled from
Deoksugung Palace through this very path to seek asylum in the Russian
Legation.
Marked with plaques and historical signs, this short section of your walk lets
you literally follow in the footsteps of the emperor, experiencing a
dramatic turning point in Korea’s modern history.
🏠Former Russian
Legation
Located atop Jeong-dong hill, this building is all that remains of the
former Russian Legation. It is here that King Gojong took refuge for almost a
year, and it remains a powerful symbol of Korea’s complex diplomatic
entanglements in the late 19th century.
🏯Seoul Museum
of Art
Walk down the hill and stop at the Seoul Museum of Art, housed in
a beautiful colonial-era courthouse. Inside, you’ll find rotating exhibitions
of Korean and international artists, peaceful courtyards, and art
installations—making it a serene and inspiring place to pause and reflect.
🏤Jeongdong
Theater & Cecil Theater
Further along the street, Jeongdong Theater offers traditional
Korean music and dance performances in a modern indoor venue. Across from Saemunan
Church, the Cecil Theater—once one of the first Western-style
theaters in Korea—adds even more cultural depth to the area.
Just behind the theater, a quiet slope lined with cafés, bookshops, and
European-style bistros invites you to linger a little longer.
🏆 Cafés &
Brunch Spots
Jeong-dong is beloved for its quiet charm and artistic vibe.
You’ll find small cafés and brunch restaurants tucked away in converted
historic buildings. Many offer terrace seating, perfect for enjoying the
crisp air and autumn colors.
Best Season:
Autumn & Winter
This walk is especially magical in autumn, when yellow gingko
leaves cover the streets, and in winter, when a light snowfall makes the
red-brick buildings and palace walls feel even more romantic. It’s one of
Seoul’s top date spots for a reason.
Getting There
▪ City Hall Station (Line 1 & 2), Exit 2 or 12
Walk toward Deoksugung Palace to begin your route. All locations are within
walking distance from here.
Nearby
Neighborhoods Worth Exploring
▪ Seoul Plaza & City Hall Library – for open-air
events and seasonal displays
▪ Namdaemun Market – traditional
goods and street snacks
▪ Gwanghwamun & Cheonggyecheon – great for
continuing your walk
▪ Insa-dong – nearby for
traditional tea houses and crafts
Final Thoughts
Walking through Jeong-dong is like flipping through a beautifully
illustrated history book. With each step, you uncover stories of kings and
missionaries, diplomacy and modern education, all within a neighborhood
that still carries the elegance of its past. For history lovers, art
enthusiasts, or anyone seeking a romantic and reflective walk, this city
trail offers a truly unforgettable experience.
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